Kóronos - Liónas and back
Evaluation:
This is a very beautiful and fairly easy walk which takes you to a very lonely
area, with stunning mountain views: it leads you to the pleasant beach of Liónas
with its multicoloured pebbles. Because of the mountainous nature of the walk
and the beautiful trails this walk gets the maximum rate of ****.
If you return to Kóronos, you have no problems with transportation. If you
prefer a shorter walk, you could make the walk there and back Kóronos –
Tzoumagiá, or you could ask the very friendly man of restaurant To Delfináki to
bring you back to Kóronos…
[Update by Raymond on September 25th 2011 and September 28th
2017 .]
[The translation of this walk was made with some help
of Google translate - so, please, do not mind the mistakes...]
Estimated time:
The way out
of this walk is 6,18 km long and takes about 2h10
(AWT) – the time for the
way back to Kóronos is nearly the same. The total AWT thus amounts to
4h20 - with the necessary breaks, this will easily become a 7-8
hour-hike, in total walking time – we had lunch in the restaurant To
Delfináki...
Route description: [Also this time you can first enjoy the bus trip, even though it takes
a long time. The bus ride starts off really slowly; through the sloppy outskirts
of the town and the plain of Chóra the bus goes up to Galanádo. Slightly further
on you have a great view on the green plain of Potamiá on the left. If you have
a good look, you might even discern the site of Agios Mámas. It is only past
Chalkí and especially past Filóti that the views are truly spectacular: between
Filóti and the turn to Danakós and also just before Agios Ioánnis you have a
magnificent view on the large town and on the entire valley. After Agios Ioánnis
you will have a view on the valley between the Korakiá-hills and Apíranthos.
Also when approaching Kóronos the view is wonderful!]
(0h00)
You start the walk on the asphalt street, near the statue of Nikifóros
Mandiláras, a local politician who was killed in 1967, in the first year of the
military dictatorship (hiking sign Liónas 2h20).
You descend to the right in the village, until you get to a small parking lot.
At
this point you continue straight ahead by following the same street – the street
is named after Mandiláras. You have to take a lot of steps until you arrive
underneath the church. You might have noticed the blue dome of the church
earlier – when passing this church you should note the marvellous old roof, made
out of flat stones.
[Just past the church you could first go to the left and across the inner court
of the school with a marvellous tree. You walk around the tree and in this way
you will go up on the left till the large building with the red roof that is
clearly visible from far away. This is the Information and Culture Centre, but
unfortunately it is often not open. Thereafter you walk back, past the church
and then further straight ahead.]
At
the church you descend a few steps, but BEFORE the end of the street, you take
the first street on the right, you pass underneath an arch, and you thus zigzag
all the way through the very quiet village. You pass under another arch and you
go through a steep street, which leads you to the traditional café (kafenío
paradosiakó) 'tou ippóti' (The Knight). Just before you reach the café, you
descend to the left and you arrive at a beautiful little square with a washing
place and a well, and the nice green outdoor terrace of the restaurant "I Plátsa"
next to it.
(0h07)
You take a left here; a signpost points to the "káto gitoniá" or the
neighbourhood at the bottom of town - there is a hiking sign Skadó 30' / Komiakí
1h40 / Liónas 2h15 + [9] and [10].
After some two minutes and 88 steps, you keep to the right on the descending
street, next to a house with a red roof (hiking sign Liónas 2h10 + [10]) – you
DO NOT go straight ahead.
[Walk [9] continues straight (hiking sign Skadó and [9]) - see the walk Kóronos
- Skadó and back.]
You thus take a right, you cross a small bridge and you continue to the LEFT in
between the houses. A short while later, you go right (red arrow) and then left
again [10] – you thus leave the village in south-south-eastern direction. You
walk on a narrow concrete trail, on the right-hand side of the valley. Very soon
your monopáti becomes alternately paved and stony, still running above the
beautiful green valley: you have a view on the village of Skadó on the opposite
side and after about five minutes you are also able to see the village of
Kóronos behind you.
(0h18)
After 6-7 minutes, you get to a new stretch of concrete - it was made in 2009 -,
but it soon turns into a gravel road.
Pay attention: the continuation of the old path begins sharp to the LEFT,
approximately 1 minute after the beginning of the gravel road ([10] on a stone).
This path turns to the right immediately and you are now descending on a nice
monopáti, paved with uneven stones. A couple of minutes later you reach a
junction, where you go down on the left and after some more minutes you take a
right - don't continue straight ahead, but do take the narrow and stony path on
the right ([10] and small red arrow on the a wall). The following descent in the
narrow valley is really beautiful and rather steep; some five minutes later you
walk across a small arched bridge. On the opposite side you take a right.
(0h28)
You now walk on the left-hand side of the dry bed of a river, with large white
stones -
pity that
there is so much plastic detritus.
After another 2 minutes, your trail moves away from the bottom of the valley and
the next stretch is rocky or beautifully paved – the landscape is astounding.
(0h36)
Mind also the two inscriptions on the rocks to the left, with dates as 1947 and
1949 and with the letters IBP, NIK, etc. Some 6 minutes later, you can notice,
high up on the opposite side of the hill crest on the right, the remnants of the
famous cable way, which was used until 1989 to transport the emery iron to the
harbour of Mutsúna.
(0h40)
You continue on the beautiful trail and far away, deep down in front of you can
already see the gravel road you will end up later on. A couple of minutes
further you walk on the right-hand side of a stable and then the descent gets
steeper.
After a few beautiful turns of the monopáti you arrive at the second
arched bridge, where you cross the same river bed – this river, which flows into
the sea, much lower on the beach of Liónas, is called the Tzoumagiá.
(0h55)
The trail continues for a little while and then it gets to the gravel road
which you follow somewhat up and straight ahead. Slightly further, at a big
stable, you open a large double gate.
[Some
days, two men are into the fold, who are busy preparing the famous local cheese,
the myzíthra. If you see them, you can ask them "Boroúme na perásoume =
can we pass here?", and there is the chance that they will invite you to
take a look inside ...]
Beyond the
stable, you descend slowly for 5 minutes, you pass through a gate again and, at
a junction, you keep sharply to the left (big red mark) - and you meander
downwards till you reach a modern concrete bridge.
(1h08) You continue straight ahead,
again on the left-hand slope of the valley. After about three minutes, the
gravel road goes slightly down until it arrives at a small bed of a side river.
(1h12)
When the reddish road descends to the right, a wonderful rocky trail continues
uphill, between olive trees and to the left of a wall (red arrow). The climb
that follows is beautiful: you continue first on a very rocky and stony path
next to a fence in reinforced steel, and after a few minutes on an impressive
number of uneven steps, most of the time next to a heavy wall. You thus arrive
high
above a grand gorge, on a protruding rock. The panoramic view from up here is
unbelievable; you can see the trail behind you, the valley and the gravel road
and even further the path that meanders to Kóronos – the houses are just visible
underneath the hill with the aerials on top of it. On the hills on the opposite
side you can notice lots of traces and holes of mine exploitation. This is
really a great spot!
(1h24)
After leaving this great viewpoint you continue more or less horizontally – far
away you can already distinguish the sea. You get to
a second cape, from where you descend into a sort
of plateau, dotted with pale rocks.
Here there is a vague bifurcation, where you need to go down to the RIGHT –
indeed, you should pass to the right of the largest triangular rock. You descend
a bit, then the path becomes clearer again and continues to the right of
brownish rocks. For the next ten minutes you walk fairly horizontally, going up and
down once in a while, in between nice walls [10] and terraces with olive trees.
In this way you arrive again high above the descending bed of the valley,
with to the right many remnants of
mining.
(1h38)
You pass through a gate in reinforced steel, the
trail is very pleasant and varied - sometimes it continues on pale rocks,
sometimes it has an uneven pavement, sometimes it is an earth path.
In
front of you, you can notice the chapel of Panagía Afdeliótissa, and after 30
splendid minutes, you get to a concrete bend of a road, which you follow of
course to the right [10].
After some 5 five minutes on this slightly descending road, you get to a
junction, where you keep to the a right (red arrow). After 2 minutes, you walk
above the chapel and a little further you find a small trail with a signpost
pointing to this chapel. The road itself meanders further for about five
minutes; in two large bends right and left the road goes down and after another
sharp turn to the right, you continue for about 20 metres, but then you see a
path that descends to the LEFT (red arrow on a cairn).
(2h00) This path descends quickly now,
straight towards the beautiful bay; all the way you walk in between two little
walls. You get to a concrete trail between the first houses and you go down to
the beach. (2h11)
Because of the multicoloured pebbles this beach looks quite unique and it is a
real experience to have a swim here.
Further in the valley you see three tavernas – the choice is difficult,
especially since all of the owners try to attract your attention. But To
Delfináki offers you a delicious sweet home made white wine with a nice mezé.
The food is excellent and the reception is very kind – there are even two rooms!
[If you do not want to walk the whole way back up to Kóronos,
you should call a taxi from this place, but
that is expensive – in May 2004 the beautiful one-hour-ride back to Chóra cost
40 €.
If you stay for lunch in To Delfináki, the host will perhaps offer to bring you
back to Kóronos…]
(2h11) The way back begins at the other end of the
beach, where you take the stairs nearly three tamarisk
(hiking sign Kóronos 2h15 + [10]); the staircase becomes a small concrete path that continues between the
houses.
After a little more than a minute, you have to take the concrete
staircase that goes up RIGHT; it veers to the left and a little farther it
becomes a path that goes up very fast on white rocks next to a wall . After a
few minutes, you arrive against a wall, where you continue to the right, and
then left. The trail becomes quite rocky and continues first along a wall, then
on the slope - and so you get to a small gravel road (cairn and red mark).
(2h23) You go to the RIGHT, because
this road veers further to the left - you will follow it for about 800 meters.
It winds right and left and after 8 minutes, it passes next to the footpath down
to the Panagía Afdeliótissa.
You pass next to the chapel and after a total of 16 minutes, you see in front of
you and in a sharp right turn, the clear path - it starts to the left of a high
wall (small cairn).
(2h39) The path that follows is very
nice and varied: it rises slowly in the middle of a lot of flowers in Spring.
After 5-6 minutes, you pass through a gate that is closed by a double knot, you
continue easily next to the valley that becomes deeper and deeper, with the
remnants of the emery mining on the slopes on the other side. You pass
underneath gnarled olive trees and later on between terraces planted with olive
trees. Further, the climbs gets steeper, you pass under large rocks and you
reach a plateau, dotted with pale rocks. The trail disappears somewhat, but you
continue to go straight ahead and pass in this way to the left of the big rock -
and your path becomes more obvious. You thus arrive at the culminating point, a
wonderful spot between the pale rocks with bizarre shapes.
(2h59) In front of you, you already
see a few houses of Skadó (right) and Kóronos, and also the gravel road to where
your path will go down now - and you even see on the hillsides the monopáti that
will continue beyond the bridge, that is still invisible. The descent is
initially quite pronounced, sometimes on steps, but then it becomes slower, on a
stony path, that arrives near a wall after 4 minutes. After a stretch with
uneven steps and a very stony part, you get to the reddish road.
(3h09) You go to the right, in between
two large olive trees, and you thus continue in the narrow valley until you get
near the first concrete bridge. The small road goes up while zigzagging and
after 5 more minutes, you get to the side-road that you follow sharply to the
right. You climb gradually up to the large gate next to the stable, and then it
takes only a few minutes to get to the second bridge.
(3h23) You follow the monopáti that
goes up meandering. You must really be careful to follow the turns – so after
some 3 minutes you go right, next to a cairn (you should NOT continue straight
on, because you would end in the riverbed!). After another minute you definitely
have to turn left! Sometimes, the path is crumbled away, but after five minutes
it gets much better; you will now gradually mount, with high mountains on your
left, crowned by the rotating windmills. The path is sometimes paved with large
stones and sometimes rocky, but always there are heavy border stones. After
having followed a beautiful path for about 10 minutes, you pass the sheperd's
hut and a little later you go through the gate.
(3h40)
After uninterrruptedly climbing up for 17-18 minutes, you get to the most
beautiful stretch, more or less flat and covered with large stones, in a
desolate landscape. Pay attention to the 4 metal pillars and the remains of the
cable car for the exploitation of emery, high up before you on the left. Note
also the eroded river bed deep down in the canyon. And on a rock on your right,
you notice some graffiti, with three times the date 1947... After this beautiful
stretch, you pass along a wall - high before you you can already see some houses
of Kóronos. You descend a little and you arrive next to the river bed, strewn
with big white boulders – it is again a nice and easy stretch of about 4
minutes, but the litter in the river bed is really a pity! After two minutes you
go through a gate.
(3h51)
You cross the river bed on the arched bridge to the left and from now on you
will mount without interruption for a little less than 10 minutes, most of the
time on a very uneven path, paved with pale cobbles. At first the path is very
narrow and steep. Then you go left and immediately thereafter you continue
straight ahead. You mount for 5 more minutes, now on a broader, but still
unevenly paved path.
(4h00)
After this rapid climb you reach the new gravel road, which you follow to the
right, of course. After 1 minute of gravel and 1 minute of concrete, the path
starts again: you mount again on uneven cobblestones for about 5 minutes and
after 2 minutes of concrete you reach the first houses. Midst the houses you
first go right, then left, then you go down some steps straight ahead and you
take a right over the bridge. You climb 31 steps and then you go left for the
last 88 steps up, and so you arrive at the square with the restaurant I Plátsa.
(4h13)
You go up on the right of the well and, by keeping to the right at the cafe 'tou
ippóti’, you arrive at the main street. You go left through an arch or kamára, a
little further you go up a staircase on the left, and then again through an
arch. In this way you arrive next to the church, where you go up on the left.
You have to climb up many more steps and then you first arrive at the parking
lot; a little further, after the concrete road, you get to the asphalt road.
(4h20)
[If you
don 't have dragged, it may be possible to catch the last bus back to Chóra: it
usually passes at about 4 o'clock in the afternoon.
If you come by car, you will have the advantage of having plenty of time to do
this exceptional hike.]
Gpx-files:
https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=20904868
https://www.routeyou.com/en/route/view/5002512/hiking-route/naxos-koronos-lionas